Sunrise from 13000 minutes on June 28, 2021

It has been a wild week across the state with record temperatures in many areas. The meteorological station in Paradise recorded several days in the 1980s and early 1990s, while Camp Muir reached 66.5 degrees Fahrenheit on June 29 at 1 p.m.

As you can imagine, this has had a profound effect on climbing conditions at the top of the mountain. Rangers climbed through DC on Monday 28/6/2021 with several independent climbing teams and guided groups.

Conditions were very good, although more in line with early August than late June. There were two ladders along the way, one at 11,200 and the other at 13,500. Both were well anchored and relatively easy to cross. Cleaver was almost completely rock, and by the time this post is released it will definitely be 100% rock from top to bottom.

At the top of Cleaver was a very straight path with several rising traverses, back-to-back and end-slot paths. There were also several large snow bridges to cross. Many of them had holes the size of boots.

Looking at the summit from the top of Cleaver

After the 28th and hottest temperatures, the next ascent parties showed that several snow bridges had collapsed and rock falls had increased significantly. Guides have found the route very dangerous for them over the past few days, and most independent climbers have done the same.

The mountain does not freeze overnight and results in increased rockfall and soft / crumbling snow bridges. When we return to colder weather and the mountain begins to freeze overnight, we should see a rapid improvement.

The guides will continue their daily work at the summit, and we expect this path to open in the next few days.

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