Conrad Anker and Jimmy China have long been top names in the mountaineering world. Both athletes have built themselves into climbing superstars. Conrad is world-renowned for his ascents, and even created a wave in the non-mountaineering world by finding George Mallory’s body on Mount Everest. Jimmy is famous for his photography and filming in mountaineering.

In 2004, I lived in Las Vegas and guided every day in the Red Rock Canyon. Many of my friends at the time lived a “bag of dirt” lifestyle, living in their own cars and using them whenever they could. It was then that I met a young climber who had just connected three great classic lines in Red Rock. Renan Ozturk connected Epinephrine (5.9, IV), Cloud Tower (5.12a, IV) and Levitation 29 (5.11c, IV) in one day. I was completely surprised. Each of those lines is not only big, but they are nowhere to be found …


I was not surprised when I started hearing stories about Renan mountaineering with Conrad and Jimmy. There is no doubt that he had many abilities to play in the same world-class arena as the other two.

There have been several articles and videos showing each of these climbers over the past few years. But none of them come close to the aesthetic quality and human tension that exists in the film, مروto the

Merv tells the story of three climbers and a mountain: Merv. Or more precisely, Shark’s Fin of Meru, which is a huge granite peak that combines mountaineering, ice climbing, mixed climbing and A4 climbing skills to climb. Dozens of people have tried the route, but no one has succeeded.

Conrad tried this route in 2003 with Doug Shabot and Bruce Miller, but failed. They simply did not expect it to be as challenging. The film tells the story of his return to the mountains with Renan and Jimmy in 2008 and 2011.

Throughout the film, we find out that all three men have experienced close contact and loss. Coach Conrad died first and then his best friend. Renan is severely injured by an avalanche. And Jimmy barely escapes another avalanche with his life.

These three men have different reasons for climbing Merv. It was a dream brought to Conrad by his mountain coach, Mugs Stump. It was a passion for Jimmy as he slowly brushed back to the summit with his brush. And it was an absolute necessity for Renan to prove to himself that he was still the person he was before the accident.

مرو The film is beautiful, the scenery mixed with the expert filming is stunning. But the real story is the story of three men, mountain partners who work together to achieve a goal while strengthening friendships …

There is no doubt that making such a film in such circumstances was extremely difficult. There were times when I was amazed at the fact that the camera went up like a boom (where did it thrive in the mountains?) To take a better picture. There were other times when I was shocked to see the camera thrown away when someone was clearly in pain or on the sidelines. And there were times when I was surprised by the fact that they probably had to climb two or even three times to shoot. And in fact, I was amazed at the fact that everything came together in one piece. مرو It is a proof of documentary filmmaking. This is a testament to what can be done …

I had an unusual experience in this movie. This was the first mountaineering documentary I had ever seen with a non-mountaineering audience. Most of the films I see like this are at the Reel Rock Film Festival, the Banff Film Festival or the 5 Point Film Festival. The people who watch films at these types of festivals are usually like-minded people who do not have too much identity at the heights depicted and do not question the motivations of the climbers.

Having this experience of watching a movie with non-mountaineers was invaluable, in part because hearing the reactions and panting of the audience reminded me of how beautiful the mountains are and how the images of what we do inspire others. . But we also need inspiration. And this is where the value of such a film comes into play. As first-class climbers, we need people like Conrad, Jimmy, and Renan to inspire us. And a movie like مرو It does exactly that, reminding us of what is possible …

Jason Di Martin





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