The Emmons-Winthrop Route continues to provide continuous access to the summit of Mount Rainier. Following rapid changes during our historic “thermal dome” in June, track conditions have stabilized slightly. The glacial level remained slightly above average (14,500-15,500 feet), but the clear sky provided good overnight defrosting overnight. Mild to moderate westerly / southwesterly winds prevent daily frosts until mid-morning when snow conditions become mild and steep.

The ice glacier has melted heavily. At the time of writing, climbers were still able to climb through the snow, but much of it has become bare icy ice. The gaps in the upstream have begun to sag and open. With the melting of the international glacier, the risk of overhead is also expected to increase. Rocks and rock features along the slopes repeatedly and without a seasonal snowfall to prevent them from progressing, rock falls cause you to move it away from the glacier. Think of safe places to break and stay focused on the lower parts to avoid exposure.
The red line indicates the path we climbed. The purple and yellow lines are older variations that are still applicable but are likely to encounter more difficult terrain.

From Camp Schurman, the trail climbs about 10,200 feet directly before reaching the corridor. Most of the corridor has been turned into icy ice, but these areas will be avoided as climbers remain on the trail. From the top of the corridor, more icy ice is encountered, leaving the climbers to climb the trails again, and before climbing the climbers at an altitude of 11,800 feet, it rises again from a snow field. From here, there are still several ways to get to the top of the mountain, and each variety is equally affected, so which way is more difficult to decipher. Fortunately, any variety allows climbers to access the upper snowy areas at 13,000 feet. Older variations take a more direct route through the broken glacier and include a combination of glacial ice and snow. The newer variety, and what we used during our climb, is a long way north to the shoulder of Winthrop, and before crossing a large gap bridge at an altitude of 12,600 feet and then moving south, a Gains a snow field at an altitude of 12,800 feet.

After crossing an altitude of 12,600 feet, some of the southern part is exposed. A mountaineering team brings older changes to the background.
At an altitude of 13,200 feet, it hits the main axis of the route. Crossing the gap here requires body length to climb steeply to reach the top. There are currently two places to achieve this goal, an upper passage that seemed more difficult or was located at a height of 100 feet, the second passage which we thought was easier. Mountaineering parties have used both successfully. After this obstacle, this route climbs to an altitude of 13,800 feet towards Bergsgrand and follows the right side of its icy climber and provides easy access to the summit crater.
Technical axis 13,200 feet. The upper (blue) passage requires a little more climbing than the sloping ground. The lower (red) passage made it easier to access the gap.
All in all, the route is in very good condition. With different variations, be sure to carefully evaluate the pitch and choose the one that best suits you and your team’s experience and ability. As the season progresses, the ascent and descent path becomes longer and longer because the paths avoid obstacles. Plan accordingly and give yourself and your team plenty of time. To help alleviate this worry, schedule a time in advance. Managing fatigue in the group is very important and remember that recovery still requires a lot of energy. This is a great time to climb the Immonses recently with good track conditions and great weather. Stay safe there, have a great climb, and we will see you there!

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