Interview: Lor Saborin's traditional crusher in Patagonia's latest film,

They / they, Which premiered on October 6, is a first-class climbing film and an intimate piece of portrait. The film follows Lor Saborin The first non-dual climber known to send 5.14 in gear, In their seasonal siege Cousin of Death, A 5.13+ five-step gear line in Sedona, Arizona. Among the amazing films of Saborin working and finally charting the path, Saborin talks about living as a trans mountaineer, their role as a very visible member of the mountaineering community, their promotional activities with exotic teenagers. And their continual improvement speaks volumes about food. And exercise disorder

Saborin grew up in Detroit and began mountaineering in the early 2000s. “I was just a little bodybuilder,” they said. rock climbing“Imagine that kid who basically lives in a club and just wants to absorb everything – that was my upbringing in mountaineering.” As teenagers, they spent a lot of time crossing the Red River and the New River, learning traditional climbing and eventually sending in several 5.13+ trails. Then, after four years on the upper Michigan Peninsula, where they climbed a lot of ice and graduated from the University of North Michigan, Saborin moved to the Southwest Desert and “just sank a lot while climbing to leave.” “

When Saborin and I talked about zooming, they were in Moab, where they wanted to spend most of the fall. “This mountaineering area is my first type of fun. I just want to be here,” they said. After much effort for the film, “I took some time to do something that was really nourishing for my mountaineering.”

They / they Filmed by Blake McCord and Justin Clifton and released by Patagonia Films. You can watch the movie Here.

Lor Saborin about the cousin of death, North Arizona (Photo: Blake McCord / Patagonia)

Mountaineering What initially fascinated you? Did it immediately become clear that mountaineering is what is going to shape your life?

I think from the beginning, it attracted me to the climbing challenge. I was never a talented climber. I tried to climb my first 5.7 and 5.8 and struggled with fear since I was a child. So it wasn’t like, “Oh my God, Lor is this amazing climber.” But I was satisfied that we all try when it is impossible and suddenly possible – those moments when you work on a challenge and realize that all your efforts allow you to Get what you want. You have worked hard to achieve the goal so I was really absorbed in the learning process from the beginning. Also, the mountaineering community in Detroit is very welcome. You will see climbers at every level climbing with different types of people. So I really welcomed the community from a young age. I think that was a big part of why I got stuck.

How has this fascination evolved over the course of your career?

One of the big changes is where my motivation comes from. At first, when I was 12, I loved climbing something, sending it, coming down, and then running to tell a friend what I had done. I loved celebrating it with them and I loved the feeling of being loved and accepted by them. Now when I go and choose and submit a project, my motivation is directly linked to the learning experience. I have more inner motivation. But I think this is just a matter of maturity. As you grow older, you will learn that there is real value in everything you experience along the way.

In the film, you talk about how your life is structured based on food, education, goals: What role does all this structure play in your life?

When you are recovering from an eating disorder and exercise, the structured component is what keeps you sane. For me, recovery from an eating disorder is mainly about learning how to get rid of the structure I want, focusing more on the minimum food intake and maximum energy produced, and instead focusing on caring for the body and having less rules. I have worked as an anti-diet nutritionist and I have tried to find a way to eat that is not very regular in structure, but still gives me everything I need in my body. I still eat a lot of healthy foods, but I no longer do it this super-scientific way, I don’t count it, I don’t follow it. It has been really healing for me to be able to have more freedom in food. But for anyone recovering from ED, this is a daily exercise. There are always things that scare you, there is always a desire to control and you just have to work with it day by day.

The same goes for sports. I practice a little. I practice almost as much as I love rock climbing. I really enjoy this process. But since I was recovering, I have just stopped exercising. I always work with either a friend or a coach, it helps me make sure that my training is based on what makes me stronger in mountaineering, not on doing as much activity as I can. I do.

This moment is there They / they When you talk about online hatred caused by a Rock and Ice Article about your post East Coast Bump (5.14a, trade). Can you talk a little bit about that experience and how it is processed?

Many of these experiences were shaped by the fact that I, as a trans person, felt from childhood that if people knew about my identity, they would hurt me in some way. To hear this message as a child, then do not spend years learning it, then force people to look at your identity and say these horrible things online – which can be like something you have been trying to get past for years. You have been. And yet, I know they are just people on the internet looking for attention.

I have nothing to say to internet trolls except that I hope they find their love in other ways. The most important group to talk to are people who have read this hatred online – who have received it and been hurt by it. I tell them you have to find a way to find yourself among the people who love you. Personally, I have to remember that these are people who are in their basement and giving hateful messages and are not with me right now. They can not hurt me right now. And I have to focus on those around me who keep me safe.

In the film you mention that it can be a strange feeling as a visible representation of a wider community – in your case the non-dual climbing community – and I wanted to know if this has changed your interest in the sport. .

When you know that people care about your work, there is a temptation to change your work. But I try not to think too hard Representing all members of the trans communityNot just realistic. The best thing I can do for a community that wants to come together is to promote the idea that everyone in that community has their own identity and that we can not make assumptions about them until we know them. .

But I also realize that taking care of myself is important. If I am visible, I want to be a visible representation of someone who does his best to have a good life. I work with a lot of trans people and these kids often do not see people who are healthy in middle age and adulthood. So I guess I think a little bit more about how I take care of myself and how I support myself, because I know it provides a framework for other people to do the same thing.

What do you know now that I wish you could tell yourself 15 years old? Do you have any advice for young or non-binary climbers that you would like to pass on?

I tell myself that I do not need to put everything together. I tell myself that things will not get easier, but I will get stronger and eventually reach the resources needed to deal with the scary things when they emerge.

I also want myself – and other trans people and non-binaries – to be really patient in finding identity questions. We are not given the tools to talk about these things at a young age, so it makes perfect sense that it would be ridiculously confusing, time consuming, and sometimes really boring. This process requires a lot of patience, humor and compassion. And it takes humor and patience from people who are trans people in their lives. There may be times when a trans person tells you something about their identity, but then what they tell you changes because they are still understanding it. I think the more we can create a stylistic identity, the less scary it will be to explore. It can be really fun if they do it easily.

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