Ranger on rappel from the Kautz Ice Chute
The Kautz Ice Shot is in good shape for rotating late-season tools. The park rangers toured on 8/23/2021, the detailed description below is a report of what they found along the way.

Approach through Comet Falls and Park Van Trump

Comet Falls is the beginning of an alternative to climbing one of the most popular climbs to the top of the Rainier Mountains, the Cautery Glacier. For us, the paradise approach seemed more dangerous at the end of the season, and we chose the Park Van Trump approach.

While longer and longer altitudes can be predicted through this approach, there are certainly advantages to starting a comet sequence. First, you will see waterfalls running along the trail for the first 1.6 miles to the view of the Comet Falls. If you have not seen Comet Falls before, you can enjoy it. Second, at the top of the comet view, your solitude will certainly increase. There are occasional walks from the waterfall to Van Trump Park, but they were not far behind.

Rangers are landing in Van Trump Park

Snowfields and Scree 

At the top of Van Trump Park (5,500 minutes), the unsaved path ascends a marked ridge path before giving way to a ladder and talus. Routes N from the northeast and about 7000 “You start moving between the rocky and snowy sections to about 7,800. From here, a steady snow trip along the Van Trump Glacier takes you to the 9400 altitude area. From here, the turtle rock band allows our team to find enough running water and camping to set up camp against the wind.

Sunset near the Lower Castle Camp at about 9,400 ‘

Castle area

The castle area, bottom and top, is approximately 9,250′-9,500 ‘common areas for teams to camp. When we arrived in the afternoon, there seemed to be a lot of running water in the area and there were plenty of camping options. With sunset, water resources are expected to decrease significantly.


The two tracks close to Cautz merge at the turtle base in 9,800 minutes. The slope of the lower turtle is approximately 45 degrees, and in the early season this feature can be moved while traveling in the snow. We found that the turtle had melted into icy ice, which increased the risk and slowed our journey. Ice conditions and exposure to ice and rockfall can be reduced by staying on the western side of the earth, which was slightly steeper, and exposure to rock and icefall can be reduced. Climbing to these features covers an altitude of 9,800 ‘- 10,800’ where a path through the Wapowety Cleaver rock climber gives climbers more options for camping just below Hazard Camp and next to a rocky staircase or Rapple directs that they must descend to enter it. Ice shelf at about 11,300 ‘.


Look at the top of the bottom of the ice.

Kautz refrigerator

There is a cliff to reach for ice climbing. There, the Rangers spotted the fixed and fixed climbing ropes of a bicycle anchored on the stairs. Knots tied along the ropes did not allow the climber to pierce the ropes, but they were useful when used as main points for fastening with a personal anchor or restraint. At the base of the stairs, a loose rocky path must be traversed above the exposed ground to reach the glacier, where you are still moving in an area of ​​potential icefall with small gaps to be negotiated. Moving out of this danger zone puts the person on ice and teams can choose their offensive line from there. At 8/23, rangers found ice fields of approximately 400-450-inch sections, one at the bottom and one at the top, separated by a low-angle piece of snow between the sections. The lower part was approximately 50 degrees and the upper part was 70 degrees. Well, the fun ice climbing happened!

Check the route for more details A brief overview of the Kautz Glacierto the

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