Anna Hazelnutt one day checks in the Southwest (5.13 R) for the first serious commercial lead

American mountaineer Anna Hazelnutt Has a significant repetition Once upon a time in the southwest (E9 6c / 5.13b / c R) At Dyer’s Lookout in Devon, England The 24-year-old checked the ground 160 feet after ten sessions, using traditional headpoint techniques.

(Photo: Mike Hutton)

Hazelnutt, who has climbed to 5.14a and V8 R boulders during his eight years of career, started climbing in January 2021 and led the way in April. He traveled to England in September to climb with his friend Tom Randall, hoping to sneak into a few lands before a Spanish mountaineering trip, but fell in love with it. Once Upon a TimeIt has an arched path along the ocean, and Hazlett said he quickly found his way across thoughtful and precise boards. “The stone is crushed, which lowers it a little, but the rest were five stars,” he said.

At first, Hazelnut considered the route a Randall project and was content to try the ground on a high rope and learn from a veteran climber. And with other greats, including Hazel Findlay and Angus Kille walking along the way, Hazelnutt could not feel in place. “I was just playing this way [these] “Legends,” he said, “and I thought, ‘This is not for me. I’m not going to be here.’ He finally sent the earth On the rope, but trying to lead away seemed, even at the time.

Leading Once Upon a Time It is a long way from the Yosemite and Indian Creek crevices that Hazelnut had learned to climb. It requires twin ropes, small, micro RPs, everything he had never encountered before, and certainly not lead. Hazelnut felt the weight of his inexperience. He had to use the shelves of friends to buy the necessary items, because he himself did not have any of the main parts and used others to talk to him about putting thin ribs. Hazlett wished he had the independence to work on the climb without so much outside support, but at this point in his career, “it was not really my choice.”

Fortunately, Hazelnutt had a strong support system, namely Randall and Ian Cooper، Which encouraged him to put aside his gear and start preparing for a legitimate effort. “I [soon] He realized that it might not be so daunting. “But before that … I was just so overwhelmed.”

(Photo: Mike Hutton)

With his personal conviction, the real work began. The hazelnut hung for hours on a fixed rope and learned the intricacies of placing the crushers, including the specific angles at which each piece could be sunk into the not-so-cracked rocks. Certainly not the simplest environment to assemble a complete level of protection. Hazelnutt believes this leads to a larger pump factor, as he tended to lock more than experienced climbers to make sure his gear was tight. As the last step in the design phase, Randall went up to inspect all parts of his prototype.[They were] “Criticism when you want to start such a sharp line,” he said. “I really value it.”

Weekend Whipper: Watch Hazelnutt’s first attempts

(Photo: Mike Hutton)

Hazelnutt’s last step in the headline process was to calm his mind. The main run comes halfway from the ground, through an indistinct pipeline, placing several body lengths on top of two solid pieces. “I think the route was actually relatively safe. Surely you’re hitting a big whip [and] “Fall down half the wall, but you will get good tools where you need them.” “You are not risking your life here – you are in danger of falling terribly. And it puts that in perspective.”

Looking to the future, Hazelnutt realized that he had learned a lot about mountaineering, even though he had chosen to climb the life list early in his career. “I am [still] I’m afraid of lower grades because I think we do harder things, like the way we did one. [top rope]It was much more like sport mountaineering, he said.

Aside from fear, Hazelnutt’s ability and physical motivation simply tries to make him a household name in the traditional mountaineering world.


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