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Jesse Grupper, National Champion 2021, Flashes Livin ‘Astro, 5.14c

Jesse Grupper, 2021 National Champion, Livin 'Astro Flashes, 5.14c

Sunday 7 November، 2021, exactly one week ago For the second time in a row, he became the national championJesse Grupper blinked Livin ‘Astro, A 5.14c in Romney, New Hampshire, originally founded by Dave Graham in 1999. (Submit the video below.)

1. Dream

blinking Livin ‘Astro It was a long-standing dream for Grupper, who regularly visited Romney as an undergraduate student at Tufts University in Boston. He admired the path from the ground years before it began. “This art is beautiful,” he says, “and I was always inspired and impressed by the people who tried it.”

He climbed his neighbor early in college, China Coast, 5.14b, and then move on to another neighbor, Jaws II, A very powerful 5.15a that he sent in the fall of 2018 after several seasons of effort. The Grupper trend is clear The second jaw What interested him in the relationship between It seams Impossible and what Is Impossible When he first tried climbing, he could not do many moves, but he knew they could be done because other people had climbed. By strengthening this knowledge, he made time, progressed and sent. But when it was over Jaws“He was kind of curious to explore something I wasn’t sure was possible for anyone – or at least something no one had done yet.”

As far as Grupper knew, the hardest flash on the Romney was 5.13d, so after that The second jaw, He put his target arrow 5.14 there. Over the last year, while simultaneously training for next season’s World Cup, he began his journey to Romney’s toughest climb. “I had a lot of second submissions, and a few that I really approached,” he said [to flashing], But in the end Livin ‘Astro The last 5.14 was left for me. So I said, “I always wanted to do it.” Livin ‘Astro. And I still have the parallel goal of flashing a 5.14 Romney. “So why not merge them?”

Grupper resting (where no one else rested) on the track to the men’s final during the 2021 National Lead Championship. (Photo: Barry Robles)

2. Enter Life

However, this dream was stopped. After graduating from Tufts in the spring of 2019, Grupper competed in the World Cup and reached the final twice in his first season. But in 2020, in the midst of an epidemic, he decided to retire from full-time mountaineering, return to Boston, and find work at a bio-design lab in Harvard, where he now builds assistive technologies. Mechanical exterior – which helps stroke victims regain it. Mobility over time

“The full-time trip was incredibly fun and a real privilege for mountaineering, but I missed out on creating things that benefit humanity,” he said. This is a constant struggle with mountaineering for me – how useful it is for others versus just for myself – which I know is something that many other mountaineers experience. “So I wanted to see how mechanical engineering would feel about change.”

Gropper, who worked full-time in Boston and also served on the board of the USA Climbing (he is on the Diversity, Equality, Inclusion and Athletes Advisory Committee), worked hard to make his schedule Change with your mountaineering. .

“I’m still trying to be sure,” he admitted. “If I say that there were not days when I went to the club and felt ruined from my work day, I would be lying. But I find that even if a session is nonsense, just showing commitment and exercising will make you better in the long run. “I think continuous sacrifice is more important than ever.”

He adds that it is important to forgive yourself. “Compassion is something that climbers often struggle with,” he said. We do not take care of ourselves or each other as much as I would like. “I think it’s important not to feel good every day and to accept the fact that a gym session may not make you feel better.”

Once again, Grupper started working on hard flashes. But now he had Livin ‘Astro In particular, in his mind, both at the club and outside the home, he practiced flushing and tried to progress in different styles. On a short trip to Rifle last summer – which is not an easy rock climb for the first time – he Living in fear (5.13d) and Simply a red line (5.14a). In October, in Vermont, he flashed Prince Fati5.14b at Lone Rock Point.

“It was a breakthrough,” he said. “And it helped me build confidence over time, it helped me understand the process. Finally Livin Astro “It simply came to our notice then.

His passes also removed some pressure from the final goal. Even if it is not sent Livin ‘AstroHe said he could be proud of those other achievements. “Intermittent goals help make the whole process worthwhile, regardless of the end result.”

Grouper on the way to the men’s final. (Photo: Barry Robles)

3. Now or never

On Sunday, November 7, Grouper arrived in Romney two hours later than ever. “It was one of the most beautiful days I have ever seen in Romney,” he said. “The leaves are starting to fall off, but there is still this beautiful canopy of colors.”

Knowing that Livin Astro It’s better to stay in the evening, change your routine and warm up in the parking lot wall – the part that definitely is No Part of his usual circuit – where he delayed his partner in his project. Gruper says that when he achieved his goals for the day, he was free to focus a little more on his ascent.

“Then I think, ‘I guess now or never.’ The sun was setting when I stepped on the wall.”

“Mentally, one of the most important things about flashing,” he says, “is knowing that failing along the way does not mean you are not strong enough to succeed.” “You have to know that you are ready and given the opportunity, but you have to let go of pride and selfishness,” he said. It was easy to fail by dragging on the wall. I knew I would be disappointed if it failed. “But I was ready to make that hellish effort.”

He said being weird helped him more Livin ‘AstroOpening Sequence “You are climbing from this strange corner, you are climbing from cracking and stuck toes. It’s almost funny. “How stinky is that?” He said.

After climbing 15 or 20 feet from the crack, the path deviates towards the impressive black zone, where hard movements begin. But after years of imagining how they felt, Grupper was pleasantly surprised by how good the warehouses were. “I was actually able to rest a bit on some smaller folds before the first game,” he said.

(It should be noted that rest is one of Groupper’s talents: As Sean Bailey commented during the National Lead Championship final: Jesse has the ability to rest on almost anything and uses it often.)

Livin ‘Astro’s The first crux is a very powerful traverse with bad legs, and crossing it was a “great confidence booster” for Grupper. He then spent nearly eight minutes at rest, with a very strange stone problem between him and the chains.

The above did not go exactly as planned. “It was definitely scary,” he said. This is probably the hardest move on the road. You take this side stretch for your left hand and the bottom for your right hand, then raise your right leg, but the tick mark that people usually use was too much for me, so try quickly. I got a new leg. And then with your left hand you go to the next hold – a strange finger stack – which is really scary – and you are thrown towards Arte.

By cutting the anchors, he admits he is “very shocked.”

I think when you practice for something for a long time, you think about whether it is possible or not, and then suddenly you do it, Wow, what a crazy life, you know?

“Behind me, there was a small piece of me that always was, Yes, this does not happen

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