Short ropes are a range of techniques that cover the use of ropes to protect and reassure party members on rough terrain. The techniques used depend on the difficulty of the field and the competence and experience of the party.
These techniques are the development of methods used in alpine environments that allow climbers to adapt the route (safe, but slow) to the speed without rope (fast, but potentially dangerous). Have. Short ropes also have the advantage that there is a better connection by dividing the path into smaller sections, less rope pulling and less risk of rope reduction in debris destruction.
The short rope involves shortening the rope by twisting the coils around the body and then tying them in such a way that it connects the leader rope between 2 and 20 meters to the rest of the party. The amount of rope depends on the ground and the techniques used. In a great spot, you will only need 1 to 2 meters of rope by jumping ropes on exposed but not serious ground, while in other hard and stable parts, climbing up to 20 meters of rope is possible with blows and protection from the leader. Is required.
Short ropes can be used for both ascent and descent, and are typically used on exposed terrain and the consequences of slipping are serious and possible. It is most often used where the track feels like it has a decent climbing side scattered with short technical sections or a strange hard stage – the side stays roped all the way through, but the amount of rope is removed and the techniques Adjust the protection accordingly. To the relative difficulty of the earth
Short ropes require constant re-evaluation and are aware of the good position and the ability to change techniques quickly and safely. It is a skill and ability to judge which technique to use and when to practice alone. It’s all about matching the team’s ability to the available track section and choosing the right rope technique.
In more comfortable areas, hold the chest coil so that there is between 10 and 15 meters of rope between you, and then take small and neat coils to release 2-3 meters of rope between the party members. There should not be too much rope in your hands – a good guide is that if you can not tie your hand around the coil, you have too much rope. Usually the most powerful climber goes forward and the team moves together at a speed that removes the rope from the ground, but does not restrict movement. It is vital that there is no looseness in the system and that the hand coils are locked to prevent slipping into a serious fall.
In more serious and difficult terrains that you want to protect or both hands are needed to progress, but where all team members are still sure that it is unlikely to fall, you must use another system. This includes dropping hand coils and climbing at the same time, placing runners on the cliff, as well as weaving ropes around clusters and natural blocks to protect team members. It is recommended to have at least three pieces of protection because it is spread on the rope at any time and removes part of the protector as a second, placing another protective leader. Once again, all climbers must move at the same speed and prevent loosening of the system.
In the more difficult parts, where it is quite possible to fall, you have to return to the complex state of the path more easily until the ground reaches it. You may need to extend the rope, but try not to pay more than $ 20 million to $ 25 million among climbers – with appropriate kicks, placing runners if necessary and delaying normally, these areas are considered small climbs. do. Once again, try to keep the length of the ground short and use natural anchor points such as spikes and blocks – this will make communication easier, more likely the rope will run straighter, and the ground can be moved quickly and efficiently. To be done.
All of these techniques require each moving mountaineering partner to judge, and must be practiced in a safe learning environment before actually using them in the mountains.
Rope coil for scramble
There are several ways to start the coil – soft lock or hard lock and up or down.
Locked soft coils are adjusted for easier / faster length, but there is a serious risk of the coils tightening under load – this may at best be uncomfortable or even obstruct breathing. Therefore, it is recommended to always use hard coils
When using a short rope on refrigerators, long coils (stern level) should be used, as this high anchor point will help you stay upright if you fall into a gap, but lower coils are better in the event of a shake. It is easier to hold the fall with the anchor. A point that is gradually attached to your waist.