Glacial levels have been very high – most of them have remained on top of the mountain for the past week, but the cooling of the movement, the gentle breeze and the long days have created favorable conditions on the desperate clearing path. Almost all parties were led and many independent climbers made successful efforts at the summit. And since the route is still relatively straight, it has been reported faster than usual.

View from the frustrating top of Cleaver. This route still climbs almost straight to the Crater Rim without any major traverse.

The parties started earlier than the heat of the day at the top of the mountain. Many use 6 a.m. as their turn time. It was a busy weekend, but not quite full. If you are in the process of deciding whether or not to get a walking permit, you will most likely do so. We did not bring anyone back last weekend – which has historically been one of the busiest.
View of the Church of Despair and the camp at Ingraham Feltz. Note that the spine of the knife is almost entirely stone.

Traversing the knife is one of the most dangerous places on the way. Remember to move deliberately and efficiently in this section. Do not slow down behind the other team here, do not rush and do not cross your crampon here, and definitely do not stop here for a photo or water. Keep the rope as instructed, keep your head while caring for the stones, and watch your feet as you move over the knife.
A close-up of Traverse about the disappointing Cleaver.
There are some ladders along the way, and the amount varies depending on where the route is headed. So far, the ladder has been for expediency only. They cross gaps that can be run in any way, but using a ladder can speed up the gap. Do not rely on any peripherals in the mountains in hot weather. Check any hand line, picket or ladder you intend to use – they melt quickly at these temperatures.
Come and enjoy the best conditions and the most stable weather we have had in all seasons! I see you in the mountains!



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