On September 4th, Neil Garsham won the first climb Glossary (E11 7a) at Pavey Ark in the British Lake District. This was his first step, which can roughly translate to 5.14 with a potential drop of 80 feet.
Garsham is no stranger to the unique ascents he has climbed Get up and shine (WI 7) was established in Kandersteg, Switzerland Sabotage (8c + / 5.14c) in Mulham, UK, and repeated several E9 and 10, but Glossary It required a new level of commitment. “Lexicon has allowed me to combine everything I have learned in 40 years of mountaineering,” Gersham writes. rock climbing In an email
The path was certainly not a walk. In addition to the continuous and low ascent of 5.14 percent, Glossary There was an undeniable scare factor: Beef it in one of the last four moves (albeit in principle, of course) and face an 80-foot fall with a sharp twist on the wall below.
Garsham desperately wanted to get out of the way, but he knew it would take all his focus and skill. “If I had expected to compete for an Olympic gold medal, I would not have achieved it with an avid amateur,” says Garsham. British ascent“I have to give everything.”
Glossary This was the first time that Gersham allowed his mental health to take the front seat during the project. He spoke with his lifelong friend and mental health coach, Charlie Woodbourne, about the relationship between mental health and his climbing performance. “When I look back, it ‘s so clear that I did not climb during times of stress, and in some cases these periods are associated with injury,” says Garsham.
Garsham prioritized his mental health in several ways. He ran slowly and steadily with good music, followed by long stretching sessions. He started swimming in cold water and cut down on sugary and caffeinated foods. He practiced several basic exercises to strengthen the brain to reinforce positive thinking. “Hard training can be a source of stress alone, and it is easy to say that harder, mountaineering-based sessions determine mental health,” he said. “While the truth is that they may not be, especially if you push to the next level.”
Gersham is sure to peak his physical strength as well. He started with the usual suspects – hung with a special feature and repetition GlossaryThe main sequences in the gym – before the experiment New training method: Ballet. Garsham’s mother is a trained ballet dancer and has always demonstrated the sporting benefits of this art. And when he tried in two very important steps (one is the last major move), he continued Glossary, He got help from Mackley, a professional dancer and ballet instructor.
“I have a firm belief that you are never too old to try new things, and if you really want to make progress, you have to think outside the box,” says Gersham. “And the result was that I got back on track and defeated both moves.”
He also had the right inspiration from the winner considering this summer’s Olympics. “I was very helpful to hear how many of their medalists repeatedly think of themselves as winners,” he said. In other words, Gersham wanted to cultivate an attitude and belief that he “probably could not lose.”
Thin razor edge for error
Gersham had the last hurdle to manage by educating his best personalities, achieving new standards of resilience, and a mentally healthy vision: the undeniably dangerous nature of the route. So Garsham and his climbing partner, Adrian Nellhams, climbed the cliff with a rope and bodyguard, but were reluctant to be sent.
Garsham knew that his last good equipment was a nest of small beams that ran about two-thirds of the way through an 80-foot wall. Due to its intensity and intense running, he first tested the falls with a heavy package, dropped it and saw if the gear was held, then introduced himself as a tester. His tallest lobe was four moves from the top, and he was only 20 feet from the deck, which was the cut-off point for him. Gersham said that the higher he goes, the more real and dangerous the situation will be. Needless to say, if the nest is torn, there will be no margin.
Steve McClure, who started shortly after sending Garsham, actually made that horrible kick two moves from the top of the screen. “It was the biggest fall I have ever seen and it was absolutely horrible in the eyes of a guard,” Gersham said. “I thought he was not going to stop, and as he was about to land on my head, hit him against the wall.”
McClure landed just 12 feet from the deck after falling more than sixty feet, the same definition of close contact, and says he is grateful for such an experience. “So most of the time we take this path in ways like this, we prepare for ‘what happens’ and they are never tested. This movement is fully implemented and we walk away and forget about it.” rock climbingto the
“[The U.K. has] McClure said the culture of caution in grading. He believes this has led to the creation of a plateau in the area, where strong and courageous climbers are reluctant to properly grade their new nail paths. In fact, when McClure started arguing with him rock climbing He quickly defended why it should not be reduced. Mountaineering is hard, long falls and potentially dangerous, and Garsham’s long mountaineering career in bold climbing gives him the perspective to rate it. “It is a shame that I have to make this comment as a kind of apology to the chair critics,” McClure added.
Garsham had similar feelings, especially after the massive flogging of McClure along the way. “Some commented that the path might not have been so difficult or scary, because Steve did not hurt himself. Of course, these people are welcome to go and see for themselves!”
Garsham Ascent from Glossary, And the breaking film of the fall of McClure, will be screened for the first time on the Brit Rock movie tour, October 22-24. Online show tickets can be found here.
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