This past winter, with all the limitations of Covid, has definitely been a strange one, and I am very fortunate to have been able to access and enjoy what is undoubtedly the best waterfall ice season I can remember in the Alps. About 10 years
This, combined with the lack of a client for my guide, meant that I could go and do a lot of ice climbing (although in the winter, however, I have a strong tendency to lead ice) and see some areas and climbs that I do not necessarily have. To. He was able to go there in a normal season.
I spent most of the winter climbing with black diamond fuel hammers. These incredibly gigantic tools have an incorruptible feel, especially mixed mountaineering and dry tools, and while they are great on spicy ice, but not fully optimized for it, they are a bit heavy to love me and so on. They do not rotate naturally, especially when holding wood on less sloping ground
In the end, I got a pair of Black Diamond Reactor tools for testing. I heard they were good and there was a parallel between them and the Camp-Cassin X-Dream, a tool that is widely regarded as a tool for climbing waterfalls. I personally have not used a pair (I hope we will test these next season), but if they are as good as my first impression of climbing with Reactors, then they will be great.
This is a short introductory course from Reactors based on the few days I used them at the end of the season and will post a full review in a few days next winter.
Black Diamond says:
With an open selection angle and a strapless design, the Reactor is optimized for climbing on pure ice. This tool has a steel head with an aluminum side plate. The extruded aluminum shaft of this tool is combined with a dual density shaft that is adjustable for all hand sizes. The Reactor is made with BD Natural Ice Pick, so get angry … because winter is on its way.
- Open the selection angle to make ice climbing a breeze
- Steel head with aluminum side plate
- Extruded aluminum shaft
- It has an innovative adjustable handle that fits any hand size
- Comes with BD Natural Ice Pick
Well, so Day 1 was fire baptism for the reactors. Crack Baby A mega classic WI6 on the Breitwangflue wall in Kandersteg, Switzerland. A few long 3+ playgrounds and I immediately felt that Reactors were moving like a dream. No unpleasant moves to put them on less sloping ice, beautiful and light but with enough weight on the head to allow the wood to effortlessly.
The grip was comfortable and safe and I did not feel the need to adjust to the factory standard. I generally wear something like a medium-sized BD Punisher glove for the measurement idea.
Grade 5 and 2 terrain from extremely high and sometimes high altitudes, Grade 6 ice and reactors operated with cruise control. It was very safe to remove unpleasant bumps and freeze cauliflower ice, and I never noticed the weight of the tools when rotating on flat faces. The final 5+ floors include some non-stop flat sections of sloping walls that were not specifically hooked or stepped, and in this type of ground it is essential that you try to get the first stick to save energy. Ensuring traction, a natural feel and the high weight of the swing, combined with the full penetration of BD Natural Ice Pick, builds confidence throughout the road and helps prevent pumping.
I think a lot of people say that when I climbed 4 or 5 pitches from my first route with Reactors, I did not feel like I wanted to climb the ice with other things! If you’re looking for an ice tool out of the water – go get some! I haven’t used them in the mix yet (it looks sacred!) But I’m sure.
After a few more routes, next winter I will post a full and in-depth review of Reactors, but I hope this gives you a taste of my early thoughts.
Learn more and buy on the site Black Diamond Website.
Price: 260 euros or 240 pounds each.
- Catch Molded rubber
- Head stainless steel
- Selection Chromium steel
- shaft aluminium
- Weight display 610 grams (1 pound 5 ounces)
- the length 50 cm
Disclaimer – CGR referees will not be charged for review and the website will not receive advertising or affiliate links. We are a group of enthusiastic climbers and travelers who accept sample products and offer an honest and independent review. The referee often keeps the sample after review for health and safety reasons, and most of the time it is not in good condition for him to return!
Kevin Averyis anIFMGA Mountain GuideLocated in the Alps, he is available for mountaineering and skiing in the Alps, England and beyond. Contact him through the website:www.truenorthalpine.comOr email firstname.lastname@example.org