Heaven to Moir snow field
Exit from paradise and move on the Skyline Trail provides the smoothest route for climbers to the snow field. Cross the creek on the red cliff and avoid any off-road trips here. The pastures from paradise to Pebel creek are fragile. Rangers need every climber and user to stay on track to protect this wonderful but fragile resource. At the top of Pebble Creek, the path stays on the cliffs until a well-marked suitcase lifts you up from the sharp snow rolls to the snowy ground.
Snowfield to Camp Muir
The lower part of the snow field follows a straight path that varies between rock and snow and moves up to approximately 8200. Here, continuous snow and a package that can be easily tracked leads to Camp Muir. The top third of Muir Snowfield is changing rapidly this week with hot weather. Watch out for cracks that open in the snow, especially at 9,400 feet. Temperatures colder than this weekend may encourage both sides to climb higher in parts of the snow above 9,000 feet.
|A smoky column from the Schneider spring volcano seen from the Cowlitz Glacier on 10/8/2021
Camp Muir to Ingraham Apartment
Moving along Cowlitz follows the typical arch path above and above the cathedral. Note that the exposure to falling rocks is high in this part of the route. After reaching the ridge, the path leads to Ingerham and you will soon find yourself on an icy / rocky path. If you use a headlight here, watch out for small signs of previous passengers such as crampon signs and reflective sticks to stay on track. Soon, the icy part gives way to a solid path that leads to Ingraham and passes through the flat camp area.
Ingraham Takht deals with Clever
After climbing the Ingraham Glacier, you will have a high crack that can now be crossed by a snow bridge. Just beyond the top slot, a ladder passes through an open gap in the flat ground. There are no lines in this passage, but nature keeps its surface relatively low. Always use your personal judgment to evaluate any “fixed protection” along the way and consider delays to increase safety or security.
|The ladder is far beyond the top gap before crossing the eraser
Climbers lose some height as they move northward in a frustrated manner, and the boot load is narrow and requires concentration. As you approach the knife, follow a slight slope toward a mass of talus. By crossing the boulders that have fallen into the ditch, you will cross the ditch between the knife and the refrigerator. Once you are on the knife, raise the steep and loose slope with a few movements that require the use of your hands. 20 minutes of sandy steps to get you on the right Cleaver track. The lower part of the clever moves north and leads the climber to the spine. Cross this part quickly, because it is prone to falling rocks from above.
Traverse to the knife is an area that is at risk of freezing and falling rocks. Plan your vacation and crossing this area as efficiently and focused as possible. Take a break after getting Cleaver, and remember to shorten your rope distance when traveling through Cleaver to minimize stones separated at the following parties.
It is sometimes difficult to get past the knife, but keep an eye out for reflective sticks and you should be able to make continuous progress. Towards the top of DC, this route climbs the 150 degree sun glacier to the top of Cleaver, which is a popular place to relax.
|Ingraham Flat from the disappointing Cleaver
Guides report slight changes in the path of the knife. There is a gap of approximately 13,200 inches, which is connected by two ladders. The ladder is set at a 45 degree angle and is well anchored on both sides. There are instructions to help with this passage. Know that the ladder has been a suffocating point for climbers to climb and descend. Be prepared to climb your other mountain climbs to avoid waiting in line.
Get ready with a shovel so you can level a good place for a tent at Camp Moir. It is a good idea to put a few ice cubes in your pack when you are ready to climb. The snow on top of the mountain is still melting into stronger, older snow that will soon take over. Also, remember to secure your tent well at Camp Moir before heading for the climb. Rangers have noticed some tents that threaten to explode when climbers are on the way. You can always tear down the tent and place a few rocks on top of it to make sure the Cowlitz refrigerator does not come down. The hot temperature makes hydration very difficult this weekend. Take plenty of water and electrolytes to stay hydrated.