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Latest Sport News
Zac Gala, the Nationals’ third boulder, sends a big illusion (V16)

Zac Gala, the Nationals' third boulder, sends a big illusion (V16)

Zack Gala, who finished third in the US National Bouldering Championships in Salt Lake City last week, joined the V16 club and sent Nathaniel Coleman. Great illusion In Little Cotton Wood Canyon, Utah, after more than ten days of work.

Gala grew up full-time at The Front Gym in Salt Lake City, a small town outside of Suwanee, Georgia, outside of Atlanta, where she trained at the Aston Summit Gym, brushing her teeth on the Chattanooga sandstone. Shaved, and worked annually. The Western Gala Pilgrimage continued to make an impressive list of outdoor hard rocks, including Jimmy Webb Posts, until he tore up his labrum last winter (when he was making a tic-tac-toe video of a rowing dino). Prepared. push (V14 / 15) in Red Rock, Nevada, and Daniel Woods Play (V15) in Boulder Canyon, Colorado. After losing most of the 2021 spring season, Gala surprised himself last summer at the Bouldering World Cup in Salt Lake City and reached the semi-finals and then the final – the first time he did one of two at World Cup level.

It was during that trip to Utah that he began his journey Great illusion, Send it from the beginning of V13, The bottom of the euro ceiling. But only after moving to Salt Lake City four months ago did he dive headlong, spend many days on the rocks, get fit and fight the weather.

When rock climbing Speaking to Gala by phone last week, he recently ranked third in the United States, after Colin Duffy and Ben Hannah. During our conversation, which has been edited for clarity and length, Gala spoke in detail about her climbing career, her plans for the future, and living in Salt Lake City, the center of competitive climbing in the United States.

(Photo: Sean Faulkner)


rock climbing: You just finished third in Bouldering Nationals and shipped your first V16. How do you balance outdoor climbing with camping? They are very different training regimes, right?

Gala: Certainly. I feel like I’m really good at rock climbing right now, but I feel a little far from practicing on camping boards. So I was a little nervous at Nationals. But in the end it came to fruition. Recently, it has been difficult to find extra time to train in competitions, because that has been my main focus Great illusion. Cottonwood Valley is on the verge of snowing for the winter, so I felt a bit of time pressure.

rock climbing: What was your trend? Great illusion Like?

Gala: Just before the Salt Lake World Cup last summer, I started V13 – Chris Sharma started – and I did it very quickly. I did not try lower movements, but I knew that the V13 was the focal point of full rock, and when I was more tired I could see myself doing it. When I moved to Salt Lake City [four months ago] Great illusion The first thing I finally tried was it was still a little hot, but I think it worked out in my favor because I gained a lot of fitness by climbing it. As the temperature started to get better, I started to get closer. Towards the end of this process, it started with the weather in general. It snowed and got wet for a day or two. It took a total of 14 days or more — I did not count the number of sessions, so I did not push myself. I had a slow mindset. It is only a 20 minute drive from my house to the parking lot. I could go and try a few times after work. So it was a relaxing process. The most stressful part of the snow was imminent.

rock climbing: Have you had any projects in the past that the process has become a bit heavy?

Gala: Certainly. This was my second long project before Play In Boulder, Colorado. Play It took me fewer days [than Grand Illusion], But since I did not live in Colorado, I always climbed it on trips and felt obligated to do it at certain times. With Great illusion I knew that even if I did not send this season, I would have a very good chance when the snow melted. But of course, I did not want to wait until May.

rock climbing: Great illusion A rather long problem, while Play It seems to revolve around a few really hard moves. Do you notice that there is a difference in your process when the boulders are shorter or longer? Is one mentally easier than the other?

Gala: Great illusion The first boulder is incredibly hard, in which I did a long, enduring style – and in some ways it was disappointing. With rocks like this, you usually do all the movements very quickly – so you know you can do the climb – but your performance and fitness are limited, while shorter climbs usually have a lot more finesse. The movements are difficult and it takes more time to learn how to do them. I used to be more mental on shorter ascents. But try big Delusion For a long time and doing all the movements, it was a really rewarding process. So I try to carry myself Great illusion Fitness in some sport climbs and see how this trend is in them.

(Photo: Sean Faulkner)

rock climbing: Do you have a specific goal for sport climbing?

Gala: I’m really looking forward to exploring the Pop Tire Cave. There are a number of hard and boulder tracks out there, so I might be able to hit them, even if I’m primarily a boulder. I want to try Ace courier [a 5.15a established by James Litz]. But I do not really have a specific goal in mind. I’ve never actually done 5.14 before – so I have almost no experience with rope outside. I just want to sample a few harder sport climbs.

rock climbing: How was the delivery day? You competed in Lead Nationals earlier that day, right?

Gala: Well, I did not intend to try in the morning Great illusion. I had a good warm-up in isolation, but after that I did not have the best day on the semi-final route, so I did not get too tired of trying and did not qualify for the final that night. So I checked the weather and saw that it was going to snow in the valley on the day of the final bouldering – three days later – so I wasn’t sure I could try. Great illusion When the computer is finished

I was still warm when I reached the boulders, but most of the area below the V13 was a bit damp. I wondered if trying at all was worth it, because I had seen these bunches before and tried to dry them. But I worked on them a bit with a fan and then decided to give it a try. In my mind, I limited myself to two attempts, because the conditions were not extremely good and I had a camp bouldering. The fact that everything about that day seemed very unlikely relieved a lot of pressure. It wasn’t like, “Oh man, everything is in order, I have to do it.” I felt like I was climbing without any pressure and everything clicked.

rock climbing: This seems to be the case for people who anticipate limited things: days when you are a little tired or things are not ideal, you end up wanting to send in your long-term project because you do not think the same way. .

Gala: Certainly. Mentally, Great illusion It was hard for me a few days ago, two sessions before I sent, after grabbing the edge of the boulder, I had an incredibly thick pont and it was very devastating, especially because I could not go back that day and I knew it was snowing. I came back for another session, but when I climbed the boulder, I felt this huge pressure. By the time I reached the final stage, I was more stressed than I was tired, and I was just making a stupid mistake. But on the day I was sent, I had a very clear mind.

rock climbing: How many times can you try in one day? Great illusion?

Gala: I usually tried three times a day, although if I was going to rest the next day, I would sometimes try a fourth time. I rested for at least 30 minutes between attempts, sometimes 45, which was definitely a little annoying. Although I spent a lot of time sitting on the rock, I did not try so hard.

(Photo: Sean Faulkner)

rock climbing: You are an incredibly powerful climber. Do you have training tips for weak people like me?

Gala: My training is very simple. in the past I used to be very big at lifting. I was in a weightlifting class in high school and I did it. But now I only get up once a week. Then I stay at The Front four days a week and try to climb a little after changing my settings. For me, the best practice for climbing has always been climbing itself. I lift weights once a week: I do chest presses, three-way shoulders, shoulder flies in different directions, curved rows, and then a lot of pull-ups or a lot of weight lifting.

rock climbing: Salt Lake City is something of a hub for the American computer mountaineering scene – how has it been a part of that community?

Gala: Great When you are surrounded by strong people, it is much easier to learn and train. It was harder for me in Atlanta. I had some teammates there who were incredibly strong, but definitely not as deep here. In Salt Lake, it is always easy to find someone who is psychic. I usually finish the route at The Front at 4pm, and it’s hard, but there’s always a big meeting somewhere — for example, four US athletes will be in the gym at the same time — and I say, “Well, I can go home and lie in bed with these kids as they get stronger, or I can join them.”

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