|Sunrise from the Church of Despair. It is always spectacular.|
DC Condition Report
Rangers, guided parties, and independent climbers are often referred to as “fast.” While not as straight as a mountain in early July, the current route is relatively straight and in good condition. Rangers went off the track at 7/14 and pointed to this situation.
Crevasses are starting to open in the main camping area, so take a moment to figure out where they are when you arrive. They are sometimes difficult to spot due to the large number of boots around them, however, they pose a danger to suspicious climbers.
Camp Muir to Ingraham Apartments:
Leaving Camp Muir and crossing the Collitz Glacier is a standard route. As you split eastward toward the cathedral stones, there is an aggressor rift that probably raises the boot pack at Cowlitz. The late-season cracks, which usually form in a line of about 10,400 and are angled from the cathedral path to the hive, begin to sag and soon show signs of opening. Rangers pointed to an active rockfall around the top of the Cowlitz Glacier and in the last part of the glacier before reaching a rocky path in the cathedral fissure. In addition, as you descend from the Ingraham Glacier to the Glacier, it traverses an icy, watery, steep path from Ferma before being placed on a snow suitcase. Turn your headlights in this area as well, as the dangers of falling heavily from above are significant.
|Camping and trail areas at Cowlitz Glacier As seen from Camp Muir by helicopter (10/10/7)|
Ingraham Flat to Despair Cleaver:
After entering the Ingraham Glacier, this path follows a normal path that leads to the fall line towards the Ingraham icy ice. Rangers consider it appropriate to take a quick break about 11,200 minutes before entering the normal hazardous route from the top crack to the knife. Reaching the high point on the Ingraham Glacier, an icy snow bridge allows climbers to cross the “Long Gap” and begin their journey with a knife. Robust performance and focus are important here. Having your team ready to catch a crash or postpone it can be a good choice for your team. There is an anchor point at the top of the passage that can be used as a downhill beam and is recommended for use when landing. The traverse follows the usual path to the rocks and, as always, is exposed to ice and then rock falls. There are reports of teams stopping to rest in this area down the road, and we want to remind climbers that this area is effective for moving efficiently, if not fast, because there is a lot of objective danger here – especially in The following items are progressing day by day
|The upper Ingraham Glacier moves from the long crack to the knife.|
Cleanser of despair
The path of least resistance to the knife takes you to the “nose”. At the top of the nose, you pass the climbers on the left to several sections of deep suitcases through the snow and move up the cliffs. As always, high awareness under the headlights will keep you on the path to the best cliff and make the journey easier for this part of the path (never harder than a third-class scramble). Staying on the trail reduces the chances of rocks falling unintentionally to more visible or off-road terrain. Rangers have noticed that some parties are stabbing their rope teams away, and we want to remind climbers to reduce your distance on the rocky parts of the DC route to avoid the possibility of rope damage or rope damage. You minimize.
Above Cleaver to the Summit
At the top of the knife, the path moves from the left at an angle, then the middle right line that moves between the areas of complexity and the complexity of the gap. The number of shifts has increased since the last update of our DC blog, but there is no way to finalize this post. In about 13,100 minutes, a large gap passes through a fixed ladder section set at approximately a 70-degree angle. There are ropes on both sides that can be used as guidelines to increase security. The boot pack on the high mountain is becoming a deep and narrow trench in some parts. Rangers leave the trenches at times for ease of travel andAvoid crampon clogging
|Alpenglu at the top of the mountain. From the top of the knife 7/14.|
As a reminder, the thermal dome in early July had unprecedented effects on the mountain. While the route is regularly climbing, teams have started to increase their safety during early landings. Snow bridge breaks, cracks, ice and falls are all standard hazards we encounter on the DC route. Despite freezing at the summit for weeks (after a record temperature), these risks only increase with exposure to daylight.Have fun there, start early and climb!