Summer is back on Rainer Mountain and DC is in great shape. The atmospheric river and weeks of cold weather helped refresh the upper mountain. There are currently no ladders on the route and many snow bridges are thick, or you can step across the collapsed bridge. The weather is very hot for the rest of this week, so expect things to change quickly.
From Ingraham Flats you go straight to the hill on the boot route. An independent party reported that in the heat of the day, a member of their party broke a secret gap right at the edge of the suitcase, short distances above the Ingraham Throne Camp. Do not let too many footprints before it satisfies you on its way. In what is called the “Big Gap,” just below the ice of Ingraham Falls, step across the bridge in a colorful way and go down the hill a little, and before that, go straight to the knife’s nose. Traveling here is now quick and easy. Exposure to ice is not as common as in previous years, but there is still danger and there is a risk of falling just before the knife as always, so the timing is important.
|Take a look at the traverse on Cleaver, which is at risk of falling rocks and ice.|
Follow a guideline (not a fixed line – do not climb or step on it) to go far to the forefront of the knife shelter and go to an open snow that is rapidly disappearing. This is probably one of the main axes of the route right now, especially when landing in soft snow conditions. Traverses are prone to rock falls (especially at high parties) and falls are not an option. So focus on your base and move smoothly and quickly from here. The guides have worked hard to keep Bale’s handwriting and route easy, but things are melting fast. Do not approach the guide line and do not expect to be able to rely on it to fall.
|Look at the sloping keys above the knife.|
The trail is mostly on the cliff and is usually located along the spine of the knife and occasionally bounces back a few keys in the snow. From the top of the knife, climb a few hundred feet straight to the edge of the mouth, following many sloping keys that do not extend up to about 13,300 feet. There are “fixed” pickets along with more faces here. You may want to use them to execute percussion programs because it will be difficult to stop them here on the sloping keys if it is impossible. Please do not move the pickets and do not use carbines.